As I had imagined, dinner at Chief Ratshitanga’s was fantastic! His wife is an incredible cook, and made us two kinds of chicken, beef, stewed beans, pap (which Cassie and I agreed has been the best we’ve tried thus far), rice, greens, and a big green salad. I also enjoyed their three adorable children, who range from preschool to 7^th grade. When they greeted us, they did so in the traditional fashion by kneeling with their hands clasped together on their right sides. Despite this being the norm around here, I found it absolutely adorable and couldn’t help but exclaim in the car on the way home that “…when God forbid I have a child I am TOTALLY going to make them do that when people come over”. After eating, Chief Ratshitanga began telling us stories, which I’d compare to Aesop fables, but were about animals and plants indigenous to Africa. My favorite was about a warthog and a giraffe, and how the giraffe did not have a pattern until the warthog got jealous of the giraffe and threw mud on it, giving it the pattern it has today. When the warthog did this, people found the giraffe even more beautiful, so rather than sabotage it, the warthog had improved it even further. At one point, he stopped mid-story and went onto his front porch and whistled very loudly. Within 5 minutes, we had an elderly man named Soloman walking into the front door with a guitar. I wish I could do this man justice when describing him. When he spoke, he sounded like the African Tom Waits, and I couldn’t help but imagine his voice reading stories aloud to village children. His eyes were droopy and you could barely tell that they were open, and he had a huge mouth and teeth to match, that were crooked and had several missing. After introductions, he sat in a chair by the door and began playing his guitar and singing. I think every one of us had goosebumps within seconds. He sang traditional African songs in the native language (Venda) and played the acoustic guitar to match. After each song, the Chief would explain the story he was singing about, and each song tied into the next as he was literally telling a story via music. For a couple of the songs, the Chief got up and danced and at one point he got Sid and Joe up to dance as well. It was truly a memorable evening. The following morning, we got up early to head out to Tshapasha for 3 meetings: Builders, young males, and young women. I was in the young women’s group, which was unlike any of the others in which I have participated thus far. Every group until now, it seems, was very receptive and was happy to talk about their hopes and dreams for the village. This group, although they had many ideas on how to improve the village, were completely silent when we asked them what strengths were in the community that would help them to achieve these dreams. It was frustrating, and just sad. I found out later from Elly and Kwathiso that Chief Hendrix (the Chief of Tshapasha who is known to be quite corrupt), has told several groups what to say and what not to say, and I believe that this was likely one of those groups. It is unfortunate that the fragile political situation in the village, as well as the relationship between UVA and UNIVEN, could cause the WHIL project to disband. There is so much good that can be done in the village, and the partnership with UNIVEN (as a university, not the students we work with. They are wonderful!) has really screwed us this year, as well as in years past.

Today was a day off, FINALLY! It’s the first full day we have been able to relax and do whatever we want. I caught up on doing laundry, by hand of course. I also got some much-needed lazy time in the sunshine while reading a book and watching the huge lizards scurry up and down the walls of our chalets. Julie, Miriam, Cassie, and I attempted to go to the big outdoor market, but apparently people around here actually respect the whole ‘Sunday is a Holy day’ thing, and there wasn’t much going on. Luckily for us, Sid got his hair cut beside the local Indian restaurant today and convinced them to host us for dinner at 6. It was literally one of the best meals I have ever had, in one of the must run-down facilities I have ever been in. Silverware is a no-go, and you eat everything with your fingers or you scoop it up with the fantastic butter or garlic naan that they offer. We ended up getting naan, rice, paneer with spinach, mutton, goat, butter chicken, okra, and some kind of bean puree, all topped off with some of the um…interesting...Indian confections offered at the payment counter. We are all hoping and praying that we can get to the village tomorrow, as the sanitation there is questionable at best. Joe and I were also stupid (and desperate, as it was super spicy) and drank the water that was served to us from the pitcher. Please cross your fingers that none of us die of dysentery over here. Even if we do, though, please know that it was well worth it, and I’m totally okay with going out like that.

Welp, that about wraps up the last couple of days, which continue to be focused around food, of course. Can I point out that despite the incredible culinary offerings of South Africa, I have never wanted bacon or REAL coffee any more in my life? The bacon here is actually ham. And it’s not even good ham. And the coffee, well, it’s instant. There is literally not a single place around here to buy real coffee. Oh, and tortillas. The folks here have never heard of anything south-of-the-border and I would KILL for some tortilla chips over here. Let’s face it: I have an avocado tree in my yard. The avocado-tomato sandwiches I’ve been eating twice a day can only go so far. Cassie and I dreamt of guacamole all afternoon. Everyone, take note! I have a birthday coming up!

Only 14 days left! Send happy thoughts!